Reflections on Esteli, Nicaragua

 

 

After 8 days and 8 nights in Nicaragua, our Boeing Jet touched down in Tampa.  We arrived about 10:30 p.m. 2.5 hrs. later than our originally scheduled flight out of Managua, Nicaragua which had been delayed making it necessary for the airlines to split up our group of 10 mission team members in order to make connecting flights in Miami and Atlanta.  It was good to be home and especially surprising to see Forest Hills Presbyterian members Eulah McWilliams and her sister Janet Egolf waiting to greet us as we came in on different planes.

 

It’s funny what you notice when you’ve lived in a third world country for even only 8 days. Driving from the airport up Dale Mabry, the streetlights and modern shop fronts, traffic lights in all the right places and not a horse drawn cart in site assured me this is the USA.  Arriving at my home the water pressure almost startled me.  A refrigerator full of food reminded me of the scarcity of resources that people have in Nicaragua.   And yet, for 8 days we were drawn into a culture and church family that truly loved one another and quickly showed their love for us. People who had very little in the way of possessions but who seemed to possess joy for life together in a community of faith.  Their spirits soared during worship when the all girl choir sang songs of praise and glorification to a God of hope and love.  Hope that the world will not forget them and will help them continue to share the love of Christ with those in Esteli who know Him not and more ambitiously to start other churches in Nicaragua.  It was truly a life enriching experience for me and I know for the others on the team. We will never forget the smiles, handshakes, hugs, kisses and the sparkle in the eyes of the children who were so happy to be at the Vacation Bible School and hear amazing stories such as Jonah and the whale.  They were like children on Christmas morning when the gifts are brought out and shared, even though their gift bags contained only craft goods for pasting together to make a whale or a windsock. They were excited and happy.

 

To recap some of our experiences, it all began on Saturday, June 10th when we left Tampa for Nicaragua. We stopped over in Miami.  Flight 969 out of Miami had a mechanical problem with the system that controls stopping the plane on a short runway such as the one in Managua, Nicaragua.  Although there was a short delay in changing planes, no one complained.  We arrived in Managua at 5:00p.m. cst.  We were met at the airport by Emerson Wilson, the missionary who, with his wife Martina, were the catalyst in getting the Shalom church started.  Emerson started his work in Esteli in 1996. Before starting the 2 hour drive north from Managua to Esteli, Emerson took us to the Esso service station for lunch. Sounds unusual but they actually had a good selection of foods. We ran into a number of young Nico’s as they are called who held up one finger asking for Cordobas  which is the local currency. We had been advised not to give them money so we gave out chewing gum and candy.  The ride to Esteli was scenic as the countryside is lush with coconut palms and many other varieties of tropical trees and vegetation.  Upon arriving at Esteli, we were driven to the Hotel Nicaro where we would be staying throughout the week.

 

The hotel was modest but clean and had a cozy court yard onto which all our rooms opened. Our first challenge that evening was to figure out the shower. Unlike what we are accustomed to they don’t have a central hot water heating system. Instead, each shower is equipped with its own small heater. That might sound fine but when you realize that the heater is in fact on the end of the water pipe and carries 110 volts of current we wondered how shocking an experience it would be. Reg was unable to get any hot water the first night and had to listen to Ricky describing how hot it was when he got his shower.  Once you got the knack of it, it certainly beat the cold showers in Belize.  A 5 foot tube was used to sprinkle oneself.  

 

Sunday morning began at 7 a.m. when we gathered in the courtyard.  The courtyard was full of tropical plants and a couple of cockatiels, which chirped loudly, but only after the cloak was removed from their cages.  At about 7:15 we had group devotions then breakfast. This was our schedule for all our mornings till we left.  The devotional time was special.  The courtyard was similar to a garden and the quiet, even with an occasional chirp, allowed us to think and talk about why we were there and how God might be directing us. After breakfast we drove to the First National Presbyterian Church of Shalom, which was only about 5 minutes from the hotel. During the week, some of us chose to walk it rather than ride.  The church is a well built block building with white wrought iron bars covering each window. The building originally began as a small home which the owner builder decided not to complete and later sold it to the church.   The inside floor was covered in 12” tiles and the walls contained beautiful murals.  On one wall was a painting of the Last Supper.  At one end of the church is a built up area which served as the stage. Behind that was a wall separating the kitchen and dining area. In the rear were two restrooms, one with a shower like those in the hotel, a small bedroom and a youth room. The church was a mission outreach from the Shalom Presbytery in Mexico but they receive no funding from them.  The property was acquired in 2003. Sunday School began about 10a.m. and included wonderful singing from the church choir. Team member Dave Moore, who also spoke fluent Spanish, led the Sunday school lesson.   Following the service, we loaded up the van and drove back to the hotel. From there we walked to a local restaurant for lunch.  The local custom is to have a large meal for lunch and a light one for dinner. We all agreed to that but it seemed that all our meals were bountiful. To my knowledge, no one has reported their weight.  Lunch consisted of either fish, shrimp or chicken with rice. Today, Brooke decided on the soup and proceeded to down the largest bowl (cauldron) of soup any of us can remember seeing.  After lunch, we took a 20 minute hike around downtown Esteli.  The people are friendly and I don’t think any of us ever felt threatened.  Tourism is their number one industry so it’s important to welcome the gringos.  Back to the hotel around 2:45p.m  and time for a short siesta.  Later, we were greeted by Emerson and Martina’s daughter Xochil (So-chee) and her friend Heyssell.  We also met our point man from the hotel whose name was Valentino. He did a marvelous job making sure everything went well for us during our stay.  At around 4:30 p.m. we left for the church and the Sunday worship service.  The service was spirit filled and again featured the beautiful voices of the all girls choir.  David Moore gave the sermon in both Spanish and English.  The offering was taken using two long poles with felt bags on the end. Ushers would walk down the center aisle and reach out to each member.  Because of the economic conditions and unemployment rates only about $20 per week is raised from its members.  Following the service, we headed out for dinner then back to the hotel for the evening.

 

Monday morning, June 12th,  burst upon us not with the rising sun but with the blast of the town siren which went off every morning promptly at 6a.m. except on Saturdays and then it was 6:30a.m.  Reg had brought his travel alarm clock and Ricky tried to convince everyone that was what they had heard. After devotions, breakfast of either corn flakes, omelets,  eggs with sauce or pancakes with honey was served. Most mornings we also were blessed with fresh fruits such as cantaloupe, mango, or pineapple.  At the church,  we started out painting the white wrought iron bars covering the jalousie windows on one side of the church.  Each window had about 20 panes and each had to be carefully removed to prevent them from getting splattered with paint.  Everybody got involved. If they weren’t painting they were helping prepare lunch in the kitchen.  We stopped long enough for a taco lunch then back to painting.  This was our first opportunity to begin to bond with the church members. Many were between 16 and 24 years of age.  They could speak very little English and we spoke very little Spanish.    It probably wasn’t exactly like the Tower of Babel but it did have its similarities. Most of the paint found its target. Of course, their was Bekah, Brooke and  Xochil who took painting to a higher level and got creative.  Following that first day of painting, God probably thought “it is good but you could have been more careful not to spill it on the walls”.  After clean up, a quick trip to the hotel to change clothes, we returned for the evening program. At 5:00p.m. those of us who were Spanish challenged became students in a one hour class that was held just for us during those first three days. We all benefited and some have even talked about continuing to learn Spanish after returning to the states. At 6:00p.m. each evening, in addition to the singing, one of our team members would speak giving a testimony of his/her faith and walk with God and how God has helped get them over some rough spots in life. Tonight, Bill and Becky Lewis both gave us a heart warming story of how God can lift us out of any misery .  Tonight, we had dinner in the hotel amongst the tropical plants and cockatiels who by now were sleeping peacefully under their blankets.  Shortly, 10 tired gringos with paint on their elbows were sleeping soundly and some snoring.

 

Tuesday, June 13th began with devotions. We all shared a favorite verse and its meaning to us.  We closed with a reading in unison of the 23rd Psalm.   Following breakfast, it was off to the church and, you guessed it, more painting.  I began to feel more empathy with Michelangelo than ever before.  Of course, we were painting from a standing position but some of us did have the urge to lay down and paint if we could have made it work.  Today was painting inside the church and the youth room.  The youth room was the laboratory of Bekah, Brooke and Xochil.  They had fun and we have pictures to prove it.  Lunch was a welcome site and Pollo (chicken) was the featured entre.  The seating arrangement was set up so that the Nicos and the Gringos sat amongst each other.  We had already started doing some of that but this way we all had a chance to communicate with each other.  2:00 o’clock we began the VBS vacation bible school.  We had expected more kids than the 40 who showed up but we later were told that school exams were being given and that was why attendance was down.  Nevertheless, the outcome was a great success. There was joyous singing, with guitar accompaniment and Ava, the music director also told the kids the story of Jonah and the whale.  Following the story the kids all gathered round tables to work on the day’s craft of putting together a mobile of the whale with Jonah riding along in its mouth.   There were many smiles as the children showed off there handiwork.  Following VBS, we went to our 5:00p.m. Spanish class then at 6:00p.m.  attended the evening’s Academy of Christian growth session.  There is always singing at any gathering or worship so we began with a few choice songs. Reg later talked about his own walk of faith and Rev. Juan Carlos spoke of his desire to go to seminary.  In Nicaragua, the church pastor is often someone with no formal training but who feels God is calling then to be a pastor.  Of course, in the PCUSA church a person can only become a Minister of Word and Sacrament after successfully attending an approved seminary.  In the case of Juan Carlos,  he has been unsuccessful in gaining entrance to the seminary in Mexico. The prevailing opinion is that Mexico prefers applicants who they believe will stay in Mexico to work and not go to the USA or another country like Nicaragua.  Prayers are needed for Juan Carlos that he may have an opportunity to study for the ministry.   Donna Miller closed our time together with a moving prayer from the heart.

 

Wed, June 14th began with….you guessed it, the 6:00 a.m. siren alarm.  Did I mention it also goes off at 12 noon and 6:00p.m.  Meal time is important in Esteli like it is most everywhere there are appetites.   Bill Lewis led our devotions and spoke of God’s call for us to spread His gospel. For this morning’s painting, we reorganized ourselves and established teams with both Nicos and Gringos on each team with a specific task to be completed. It seemed to help our efficiency.  After our morning painting, we held the 2nd and final day of VBS.  I think we had a few more children and it also was very successful.  Back to the church at 6:00p.m. and Dave Moore talked about his own spiritual experiences and how God had helped him through a difficult time in his life.

 

Thursday, June 15th ,  it was siren, devotions and breakfast. Darla led the devotions.  Today, we will drive to the prison. The plan was to only meet with the women.  In the prison, there were about 700 male and 40 female inmates.  The only thing of beauty about the prison was the view of the surrounding mountains. Of course, even that view is different when you’re looking through bars. The drive from the church took only about 20 minutes. Before we were allowed through the gate, we had to turn in our cameras and produce a photo ID.  Having done that, we were literally given a “get out of jail” card.  I guess we could have talked our way out if any one of us would have lost their card but no one took that chance and the card was well placed into our deepest and most secure pocket.  Today also was family visitation day.  The area where families and prisoners were to gather was a fairly large  open area with a roof about 5 or 6 times the size of the recreation pavilion at Cedarkirk.  We were guided past the pavilion into a much smaller enclosed room about  1.5 times the size of our music room.  It was decorated with balloons etc. as there had been a wedding earlier.  Even though we were to worship with the women, there were some men who came to the service. Not all of the prisoners had visitors on family day.  Emerson Wilson gave a very strong sermon on the price Christ paid at the cross for the salvation of all.  Of course, the Shalom church women’s choir were there and lifted the spirits with songs of joy and hope. Following the worship service around noon,  we gave each man a lunch as they filed out of the room. The women prisoners remained and we were able to spend some quality time sharing with them in small groups of 3-5. Each group had a translator.  I really can’t do justice as to what was accomplished during the time of sharing but the photos and the smiles said a lot about what this time meant to the women prisoners. We were allowed one camera so we were able to get some pictures of our time at the prison.   We learned that some never receive visitors and others only infrequently.  We heard stories about how entire families were put into prison because of one family member dealing in drugs.  We also were told that the justice system in Nicaragua is not blind and that if you are among the wealthy few you can buy you way out of most any situation.  You may be thinking that’s no different than in the USA but at least in our country even the poor can receive fair representation.  It was common to learn that even first time offenders caught with a small amount of drugs were sentenced to 10 years in prison.  As we were walking toward the main gate with our “get out of jail” cards clutched tightly in our hand, I heard someone from the men’s prison yell out “hello Emerson”.   I knew our trip had made a difference and isn’t that what we should be all about?   We had helped make one day a little more memorable for about  40 prisoners and they had shared their lives with us in ways we will never forget.   Oh yes, following this prison experience we went back to the church and did time…..painting.   Please don’t ask any of us to paint anything for at least a year.

 

Friday, June 17th .  God is good.  Today is our last day of painting.   We teamed up with our Nico friends and finished all areas we started. The only thing left for the next team would be inside the church where we were unable to reach the highest point of one wall and also where we ran into a small problem with shades of color as new batches of paint were mixed together.  Imagine the FHPC lawn being about 2 feet in height and mostly weeds. Well, imagine the 2 feet anyway.  Several on out team noticed a couple of guys using powerful weed eaters across from the church and asked them if they would come over and cut down the weeds.  A deal was struck and the weeds fell.  That almost sounds biblical.  Anyway, it looked good and too bad we didn’t do it before VBS.  But then, those folks who have so little didn’t really care if a few weeds separated them from the fun of VBS. After lunch, some of us started out walking back to the hotel Nicaro but the threat of rain and a few strategic rain drops convinced us to ride.  That afternoon most of the group walked around Esteli checking out the shops.  Dave and Reg decided to check out a local hang out and museum of the Sandinista party. You remember the late ‘70’s and 80’s when the US supported the Contra’s against the Sandinista party.  Other than some funny looks initially, the people were cordial to us. The walls were plastered with pictures of both live and dead Sandinista soldiers and editorials about the US president Ronald Reagan who they didn’t particularly like.   The only time I felt a little awkward was when we were sitting at a table enjoying a coke, Dave decided to wander into an adjacent room and take some pictures.  So that left me alone with my Spanish vocabulary of about  12 words and that is if I had my little note pad in front of me. I managed to tell them we were from the Shalom church and I didn’t vote for Reagan anyway.  Naaa….I didn’t say that last part.  I was glad when Dave returned and we exited the building.

 

Saturday, June 18th would be out last day in Nicaragua. It was also the day that I came down with some stomach problems. I really couldn’t complain much as the little Nicaraguan parasite had already hit Ricky twice during the week.  Val was also afflicted but in good American form we all jumped on the bus and drove the 2.5 hours to Masaya and spent about 2-3 hours in their shopping market.  We were able to bring about 20 of the Nicaraguan kids from the church and we all had a good time. I was miserable.  After lunch, we again piled on the bus and went to see the local Mt. St. Helens or a Volcano Masaya.  Since most of the kids had already been there, it was just the mission team that Emerson drove up to the rim of the volcano.  We were informed we had to back into the parking space so we could make a quick getaway in the event of a sudden eruption.  These people are very safety conscience as the last volcanic activity was back around 1660.  Having never seen a volcano up close and personal it was a first for most of us.  Because I still felt lousy, it was mainly just a big hole in the ground with a wisp of smoke coming from the bottom.  I was hoping for an eruption so I could get some good pictures.  Saturday night was a welcome to us all.  We had accommodations in the Best Western Motel with real showers and an air-conditioning system that would keep meat fresh for days. We enjoyed a good meal in their dining room and later gathered in a conference room where we had a chance to exchange gifts and reflect on our experiences of the past week. Emerson, Martina and Xochil were with us and shared there thoughts as well. It was a good time together.  Later,  Dave, Ricky and I shared a room. I was so tired not even Ricky’s snoring could not keep me awake. 

 

Sunday, June 19th and homeward bound!  The airport was just across the street from the motel so after breakfast we loaded up the van and headed for the place that by now we were all looking forward to.  But we were in for a few last minutes surprises.  After unloading the van with our luggage and moving into the line at the airport, Ricky and I noticed we were both missing one of our suitcases. Mine was full of dirty laundry so I wasn’t particularly worried but Ricky’s had his camera in it. We took off just about running back across the four lanes of highway that separated the airport from the motel. When we walked in the lobby, there they were sitting where all the luggage had been clustered about 30 minutes before.  Now, surprise number two.  After all the luggage had been checked in we were told that our plane was running two hours late and that this would cause us to miss our connecting flight in Miami.  Oh my.  After some tense moments with an airline supervisor we were given some options which involved splitting up the team into three groups.  As it turned out flights arrived in Tampa within about one hour of each. We were tired but we had lived a great adventure for 8 days. We had met some wonderful Christian people from the First National Presbyterian Church Shalom Nicaragua who showered us with smiles, hugs and good food which I must say we worked hard for……the food not the love.  We heard some beautiful music sung with joy and praise from people whose annual income probably averages about $2,000 if that much.  We learned a little Spanish but learned even more that communication is often best when words don’t get in the way of smiles, hugs, gestures and laughter.  I know I left with a feeling of what next.  How can we help the good people in their efforts to build their church in a community where 60% of the people are unemployed and only about 60% of the church budget is covered by its members. Outside donors are badly needed to cover unsupported personnel costs of about $400 per month.   With hopes and dreams of starting some more churches in Nicaragua, Emerson and wife Martina are pretty amazing people. Often times, the money to fund a particular program comes out of their own pockets.  We have so much and these folks have so little but what they have they shared with us from their hearts for 8 glorious days of working together to paint a building where people can come and worship a God who is faithful and true.  They didn’t say it in those words but I think that is what helps keep them going forward.  I hope we can continue to be of support for this mission and do even more to help them realize their dreams of more churches to serve more of their citizens.

 

Me llamo Reg